Survival of the Tastiest for Mint

Headline writing is a fascinating exercise.  When I write a column, I try to come up with headlines.  Mint’s team always do better (naturally).  What is the skill that one needs to be a good headline writer, I wonder.  I mean, you have to take the essence of an article and combine it to make a catch few words.  And you’d think that since I am the writer of the piece, I’d be good at making up a headline, right? Wrong.  So I’ll keep trying and the day I come up with a better headline that Mint’s for my pieces, I am going to forward it to them.  Here is my latest column

Survival of the tastiest?

If a Tamilian can eat a ‘samosa’, why don’t Punjabis demand ‘vathal kuzhambu’?

The Good Life | Shoba Narayan

You don’t realize this as you tuck into that breakfast, but India is in the throes of a grand culinary experiment. What are you eating, by the way? Is it a dosaparatha,samosabrun maska or luchi? Your answer could determine the future of your favourite dish.

Why do some dishes travel so far from their origins and why do other dishes stay locked within a region? Take the pizza, for example. It originated as a Mediterranean flatbread. The term was probably first used in 10th century Italy. After World War II, American troops brought it back home; the franchises took over, and the dish has taken over the world. We have Brazilian sweet pizza with fruit toppings, Israeli kosher versions, and toppings reflecting the nation, such as bulgogi, tandoori chicken and sambal paste.

 

Essentially Tamil: (clockwise from left) Idli, easy to cook and pronounce, has travelled well, but not vathal kuzhambu (below); and Naren Thimmaiah, executive chef, Gateway Hotel, Bangalore, shows us how to make vathal kuzhambu. Photographs by Aniruddha Chowdhury/Mint.

Essentially Tamil: (clockwise from left) Idli, easy to cook and pronounce, has travelled well, but not vathal kuzhambu (below); and Naren Thimmaiah, executive chef, Gateway Hotel, Bangalore, shows us how to make vathal kuzhambu. Photographs by Aniruddha Chowdhury/Mint.

 

Pizza has the three factors that allow a dish to travel: It is dry, allowing for easy packing; its ingredients allow for local adaptations; it is not complicated to cook; and can be made using a simple chulha (coal stove) or a brick oven. In India, the samosa fits these criteria, which is probably why it has travelled so well across our land, not to mention lent its name to the hilarious website Samosapedia. 

Consider, in contrast, the humble vathal kuzhambu, from the Tam-Brahm heartland of Thanjavur district. It uses primarily two ingredients: dried vegetables, called vathal; and lots of tamarind water. The vathalsare simmered in tamarind water till the gravy becomes thick. Spices such as asafoetida, salt and chilli powder give it flavour. I am simplifying the recipe, but you get the picture. My question is this: Why did a recipe that originated in Iran take over the Indian subcontinent while a far easier recipe with far fewer ingredients failed to travel beyond its borders? In other words, if a Tamilian can eat a samosa, why don’t Punjabis demand vathal kuzhambu?

Also Read | Shoba Narayan’s previous Lounge columns

It is a dilemma that would do Darwin proud. The evolution of dishes; survival of the tastiest; cross-border migration; deep-fried or else you are out.

Common wisdom holds that the reason Punjabi dishes have spread all over India is because they travelled the road with Punjabi truckers. Then why hasn’t the supposedly ubiquitous Malayali tea-shop owner cooked and sold his appam and stew wherever he set up shop? If demand drives markets, why isn’t there a market for kori gassi,sabudana vadasarapatelor yakhni?

 

 

 

Sociologist Arjun Appadurai has suggested that some of this has to do with regional character. Subtle cuisines and softer people are often overtaken by more assertive cuisines and aggressive people: Telugu by Tamil; Oriya by Bengali; Kannada by Marathi; Rajasthani by Gujarati; and Kashmiri by Punjabi. You could argue the specifics but it is true that some regional dishes are not as popular as they should be. With canned coconut milk available all over India, you could argue that solkadhi should be more popular than it is. With today’s emphasis on healthy food, shouldn’t sprouted Maharashtrian usal have taken over Indian kitchens? And please, don’t tell me that a samosa is easier to make than an idli, which fits all the parameters of a travelling dish: It is dry, easy to cook, and open to regional adaptation—witness the idli Manchurian. Then why don’t people in Binsar or Raichur eat idlis, choosing instead to painstakingly fry asamosa

Some of it has to do with marketing. While the dosa and sambhar that I eat four mornings a week (if I can) is known to all my Punjabi and Gujarati friends, who modify it with pinches of garam masala and sugar, respectively, no Tamilian has marketed the vathal kuzhambu. The name itself is pretty difficult.

Here I come to my core theory of culinary supremacy. It’s all in the name. Any dish with more than three syllables is doomed. Dharwad people sing the praises of badane ennegai (stuffed brinjal—seven syllables) but do you think it stands a chance next to the four-syllablebaingan bharta? Do you think a Dilliwala can even pronounce amezhukku varati, let alone desire to order it? Do you think a south Indian like me can memorize kobi bataka nu shaak as compared with a short and simple dhokla? You Mumbai folk might be able to say patra ni macchi with elan, but I tried ordering it for a friend and didn’t get beyond the patra, which is a leafy “ghaas-phoos” (vegetarian) dish made with Colocasia leaves.

Want to predict the future of Indian dishes? It’s all in the name.

Shoba Narayan loves her biryanis (four syllables but still famous) and her samosas (three syllables), but cannot live without her dosa (two syllables). Write to her at thegoodlife@livemint.com


 

Karthik Chaat shop, Indranagar

Went to Karthik chaat shop in Indranagar. Used to love this place when it was on CMH Road. The location has changed to a quieter road behind the BDA complex. They have cleaned it up now with gleaming stainless steel counters. Samosas at 12 a pop were a ripoff. The samosa chaat was good though, with thick dahi instead of that ridiculously thin concoction that they serve at Anand Sweets in Commercial Street. If you must cut costs, at least work for it, man. Dice vegetables thinner to make them look like they have some girth. But adding water to dahi? Any babe can do that. Hell, I can add water to my dahi if I like the Kerala sambaram consistency. So anyway, I have stopped having chaat at Anand Sweets for this very simple reason. The Pani puri at Karthik’s was ok. You know, when the servers hand out pani puri, there has to be a sense of largesse to it. You may be alloted a measly five puris for your Rs. 25, but the giving of it has to be generous, or at least pretend to be generous. This guy at Karthik’s was counting the puris. Pissed me off. They should take a lesson from Tiwari Brothers. The pani puri guy there acts as if there is a bottomless pit of pani puris and it’s all yours for the taking. Still searching for a samosa to topple Bhagatrams, which still holds my number 1 spot for the best samosa in Bangalore. At Rs. 7 a pop and spiked with ginger, they are terrific. Plus you get to chat with the owners, who, in one of the commonplace oddities of Bangalore are North Indians by the looks of them, but they speak fluent Tamil.