5000 word feature on Mumbai for Condenast Traveler US edition

It’s nothing if not a city of contrasts. It’s ancient and modern, dirt poor (home to Asia’s second-largest slum) and filthy rich (stomping ground for countless millionaires). It parties till dawn yet still prays at daybreak. It has has nightclubs and temples, socialites and mystics. It’s the most densely populated metropolis on earth, and it has a beach for a backyard. Some say it’s too fast, too big, too much—and not to be missed. It even has two names.

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