Travel Stories

Luxury Bhutan: for The National, Abu Dhabi

November 25th, 2023|Featured, The National, Travel|

I am crawling on all fours on a bund between the emerald paddy fields in Punakha Valley, Bhutan.  Ahead is the fabled Mo Chu river.  All around, perched on hillsides are Buddhist nunneries and monasteries, their prayer flags bringing to mind a Matisse print. This is Bhutan: carbon-negative, Buddhist and a pioneer in sustainable tourism. What I am after is neither Zen nor spiritual but a hoopoe, a stunning bird that is linked to wisdom in Farid ud-Din Attar’s wonderful poem, “The Conference of the Birds.”  Birders come from all over the world to Bhutan for its extravagance of wildlife.  This tiny country, about the size of Switzerland contains 774 species.  In comparison, neighbouring India— nearly ten times the size— has just 1200 species.

For Mint Lounge India on Bhutan

November 25th, 2023|Luxury, Travel|

Does thinking about death five times a day increase your happiness? The Bhutanese seem to think so. Throughout the mountain kingdom, death mixes with life in ways that are subtle, yet beautiful.  Consider tsa tsas for instance.  Families fashion these tiny stupa-like pyramids using clay mixed with– get this– ashes of dead relatives and leave them as roadside offerings. The ubiquitous prayer flags also memorialize the dead, as do some thangka paintings and chham dances. Funerals are communal affairs– since Buddhists believe in reincarnation, death itself is seen as a new beginning.  

Birding in Costa Rica: for Condenast Traveler US

October 11th, 2023|Featured, Travel|

We were in Monteverde, the second leg of my family's eight-day-trip through Costa Rica. Our itinerary was tight. We would fly into San José, the capital, rent a car, and drive the La Fortuna region where the dormant Arenal volcano loomed over the landscape like a benevolent pyramid. From there it would be onward to Monteverde, one of the last remaining cloud forests in the world. Finally we'd head to Jaco beach, beloved to surfers, before flying ‘home’ to San Francisco.

Latest Articles

The cult that conquers: Hindustan Times

December 4th, 2025|

It is December in Bangalore. Finally, the bean that Bangaloreans wait for, and celebrate with a josh that is akin to how Delhiites celebrate the musk melon or how the whole country celebrates the mango during the summer.

Poem: Silence: in the DMQ Review

December 2nd, 2025|

This poem was nominated for the Pushcart Prize. I am pinching myself. I had submitted it to the DMQ Review, which published it and later nominated it. Details in the post.

Interviews with His Holiness The Dalai Lama

Old favourites that I wrote for Condenast Traveler (US edition)

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