Travel & Leisure US: Hotel Review: The Leela Coorg

The first thing I do after reaching The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary in its plush BMW 5 Series housecar is to ask my butler to pour me a glass of wine. Afterwards, she unpacks my clothes, prepares a cheese platter, hands me a glass of cabernet, and serves a terrific al dente pasta in my private villa—and that’s all before lunch.

Confronted with such attentive service and over-the-top luxury, I found myself defaulting to a shy, apologetic mixed-messaging mode—but quickly realized that the solution to resolving any such awkwardness was to simply capitulate. It only took half a day for me to transform into the kind of person I might judge: a combination of a helpless infant and a diva.

When chef Santanu Kakoty, of the on-site restaurant Luma, suggested I try the fresh almond croissant, I surrendered—and then had one each day. When the property’s naturalist saw me struggling to put on my gumboots before a birding walk and offered to help, I stretched my legs out obediently. When chef Anshul Kothiyal, who heads the pan-Asian restaurant Zen, brought over a dessert made with smoked Japanese-style nama chocolate and gold foil, I wondered if he would spoon it directly into my open mouth.

For those familiar with The Leela Palaces, Hotels, and Resorts, all that opulence likely comes as no surprise. Among India’s luxury hotel brands, The Leela hospitality brand is known for its lavishness—there’s no skimping, fresh flowers can be found everywhere, and there are on-staff butlers to boot.

Founded in 1986, The Leela brand is turning 40 this year, and is perhaps primarily known for grand, palatial hotels usually located in bustling cities or scenic beachfronts. The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary, however, is a little different from other properties in its portfolio, and is (as the name implies) more focused on unwinding and enjoying the beauty of nature. Set amidst the coffee and spice plantations of the Western Ghats range, the property enjoys stunning views and such clear mountain air that I imagine it would make my friends in Delhi weep.

The hotel encompasses 76 lush acres and has a seven-acre lake, 71 expansive villas, and over 300 staff in attendance. Hikes, kayaking, and birdwatching activities are on offer, but guests can, of course, can spend time in the 27,000-square-foot spa or take in the views from their villas.

By the time I leave in the BMW, complete with a great Indian send-off, I believe I have completely forgotten who I am—a butler loaded my suitcase, the lobby manager pressed cookies into my hand, and another attendant placed sandwiches in the seat next to me. Just as I’m starting to believe that I’m a member of a royal family, my mother rings my phone. “Why aren’t you returning my calls?” she asks without preamble, bringing me instantly down to earth.

Here then, with two feet firmly planted on the ground, is my review of The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary.

Rather than traditional hotel rooms, The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary has 71 villas sprawled across 76 acres of lushly forested and well-manicured grounds—regardless of which you choose, all of them are dazzling. Even the starting accommodation option, the Windchimes Duplex Villa, spans 1,200 square feet and two levels. I stayed in the Forestlight Luxury Villa, which measures in at 3,200 square feet, and is about the size of my Manhattan apartment. The Sunbeam Presidential Villa, clocking in at a roomy 10,000 square feet, has an in-villa private dining room as well as easy access to the helipad.

My villa had a temperature-controlled private pool, which was beautifully nestled into the surrounding forest. The large bathrooms had indoor and outdoor showers, Jack-and-Jill sinks, fragrant bath amenities, an unpacking area, a safe, a study table, and a plush king bed that overlooked the forest. Outside, I could enjoy the verandah for alfresco dining, as well as twin spa beds, a hammock, and a hot tub. Although this isn’t an amenity the hotel can guarantee, I loved the colourful butterflies that flitted in and out of my villa as I lounged on the hammock while reading a book.

There are a grand total of four food and beverage venues at The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary, including two restaurants.

Luma, the all-day dining eatery, has 180 seats and gorgeous lake views—guests can look forward to Coorg-style pork curries and mushroom dishes as well as a terrific bhatura, puffy fried bread served with spicy chole (a Punjabi tomato and onion gravy). At Zen, the signature pan-Asian restaurant, skillfully made sushi and Thai-style noodles are served at romantic pavilions overlooking the forest. During my time at the hotel, I also took a cocktail class at The Cellar Lounge Bar and made a tequila picante, which is all the rage in India at the moment—in the spirit of science, I had three glasses to evaluate their quality. The next morning, I staggered into 92 Degrees, the coffee lounge where I silently enjoyed excellent house-grown coffee (Coorg is known as the “Coffee Capital of India”). As I sipped on my morning cup, I was told that the café gets its name from the fact that coffee is best enjoyed when brewed at 92 degrees Celsius, a temperature that doesn’t scorch the beans—I simply nodded gravely and sipped some more.

Clocking in at 27,000 square feet, Aujasya by The Leela Spa has a menu packed with Swedish, Balinese, and Ayurvedic-inspired treatments, and is home to the area’s only Turkish hammam. Naturally, I had to try it. Two smiling therapists took charge and exfoliated, massaged, and scrubbed as I lay supine on a hot marble table in a steaming room. I returned to the spa the next day and opted for an Ayurvedic treatment I had been wanting to try: shirodara, which involves warm oil being dripped across your forehead, creating profound relaxation. Afterwards, I spent time relaxing in the terrace garden in a bamboo chair, taking in the mountain views.

The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary has three wheelchair accessible options in its Riverstone Family Villa category. There are no staircases in this villa type, and bathrooms have roll-in shower access, and there are grab rails, too. All handles are lowered throughout the space as well. Keep in mind that the property is fairly hilly—however, buggies are available and on call if needed. Public spaces, restaurants, and the spa can be reached via ramps as well.