Hotel Review in The National Abu Dhabi: The Leela Coorg

The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary review

A luxury retreat where nature takes centre stage

Set across 76 acres of coffee plantations and forest, this new Leela property offers a lavish interpretation of luxury in Karnataka’s Western Ghats

Five hours from Bangalore, Coorg has long been a favourite escape for leisure travellers. What sets the Leela apart is its sheer scale. While most luxury resorts squeeze villas, restaurants and swimming pools into a few carefully landscaped acres, the Leela sprawls across an entire hillside, making you feel less like you have checked into a hotel and more like you have temporarily acquired a small plantation in Coorg — which, come to think of it, is an Indian dream.

Spread over 76 acres, the property began life as a coffee plantation and has wisely resisted the temptation to manicure away its origins. Robusta and Arabica coffee plants, pepper vines, fruiting fig trees and towering silver oaks still punctuate the landscape. Malabar parakeets and barbets flit through the trees, while the occasional Malabar giant flying squirrel makes a dramatic appearance overhead. No wonder the Leela has called its latest offering a “Sanctuary.”

This marks the 40th anniversary of the brand, known for it polished resorts and palace hotels, a favourite of the big fat Indian wedding. Here, the Leela is putting nature and wellness at the heart of the guest experience.

A few weeks ago, I checked in to find out if the approach works.

The welcome

The hotel sends a BMW 5 Series to collect its guests, a pleasant bonus given the traffic on Indian roads. As we drove into Coorg, the road climbed gradually into the ancient Western Ghats. The air cooled, the landscape grew lush and mist settled over the valleys. By the time I arrived, city life felt like a distant memory.

Indian hospitality rarely believes in understated arrivals, and the Leela follows the template. Five people appeared to welcome me, all smiles and hovering care. A young woman in a sari sprinkled water from the sacred Kaveri river; another offered a garland made of coffee beans and cardamom pods. The soaring bamboo lobby reminded me of both Zaha Hadid and Bali.

In short order, I was assigned a butler, Manisha, a pleasant and brisk 26-year-old who took care of my needs for the next three days.

An electric golf cart is the preferred mode of transportation, and I soon discovered why. The property is large but its red-brick buildings are tucked into the landscape. The downside is the terrain. My villa was in the valley; the lobby was almost at the summit. Walking between the two could count as cardio, not that I ever chose this option.

The neighbourhood

The resort is near Madikeri, in the heart of Coorg, or Kodagu as it is known locally. This is coffee country, with forested hills, waterfalls and a distinctive Kodava culture.

One morning, I drove about 90 minutes to Talakaveri, regarded as the source of the Kaveri river. The road wound through misty hills to the river’s birthplace, a place of considerable beauty and religious significance. Standing there, I finally understood why virtually every girl I have met from Coorg is called Kaveri.

The room

The property is entirely villa-based, with sizes ranging from 850 square feet to 10,000 square feet for the presidential villa. I stayed in the Forestlight Luxury Villa, which, at 3,200 square feet, was larger than the Manhattan apartment I once owned.

I entered through a blue door into an open veranda and alfresco dining area, complete with a Gaggia coffee machine. Outside was a private infinity pool, heated pool and jacuzzi, along with two massage tables and a hammock. Honeymooning couples will have a lot to do.

Inside, a king-size bed opened on to the veranda. The generous bathroom had indoor and outdoor showers, his-and-hers sinks and a separate dressing area with luggage storage and a safe.

The scene

Secluded resorts have one perennial problem: how to keep guests entertained without making them feel they are at summer camp. The Leela has plenty of answers.

Guests can kayak on the lake, try catch-and-release fishing or visit the petting zone, where cows, goats, horses, rabbits, turkeys and, somewhat incongruously, emus share the space. On rainy afternoons, a games area offers carrom, chess, table tennis, foosball, pool and a giant carrom board made with Pakistani marble. 

As a birdwatcher, I also enjoyed a morning walk with resident naturalist Emmanuel, who introduced me to some of the property’s blue birds, butterflies, trees, mushrooms and spices.

The service

Service is one of The Leela’s strengths and for its guests, pleasures. Staff seem encouraged to anticipate rather than merely respond. Manisha unpacked my bag, prepared a cheese platter and ferried me around the property for spa and yoga appointments. Restaurant waitstaff remembered my preferences without requiring repeated explanations. They offered choices and alternatives. Try out almond croissants, said the chef.  I did, and didn’t regret it. The naturalists seemed eager to share their love for the land and its non-human inhabitants. Even the staff who ferried me around on the golf buggies were solicitous. The guest experience coordinator, Yashmita, put together an itinerary that was both inclusive and flexible, important for a resort that emphasizes relaxation.

The wellness

Aujasya by The Leela Spa occupies 27,000 square feet and combines Ayurveda with contemporary treatments, fitness facilities and relaxation areas.

On my first day, I tried the Turkish hammam, the only resort in the region to have one. Two therapists massaged, polished and exfoliated my skin as I lay on a heated marble table. I emerged feeling squeaky clean and, dare I say, a few grams lighter.

The following day brought an Ayurvedic shirodhara by a quiet therapist called Ruby. After an oil massage, warm oil was streamed over my forehead and head for about 20 minutes. It was blissfully relaxing, particularly for a restless mind such as mine.

The food

Luma, the all-day dining restaurant, is spacious and serves excellent regional and international food, with live counters offering Japanese, Arab, Indian, European and Pan-Asian dishes. Try the Coorg dishes for a taste of the region.  

Zen serves beautifully plated Pan-Asian food in a garden setting. The desserts with Japanese Nama chocolate are elegant and different. Here too the waitstaff pointed out ingredients and details in a way that elevated the experience.

The Cellar serves excellent mocktails using local herbs and spices. 

At 92 Degrees, the property’s coffee lounge and library, guests can explore the bean-to-cup journey and learn more about Coorg’s coffee heritage, a great way to connect to the spirit of the place.

The verdict

The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary combines spacious villas with warm, attentive service and an extensive range of activities and wellness experiences. Its greatest luxury, however, is that it offers time and space for  guests to disconnect from the city without compromising on comfort. For travellers seeking a nature-led luxury escape in South India, it makes a persuasive case.

The bottom line

Villa rates start at US$580 per night, including 18 per cent taxes. Check-in is from 2pm and check-out is at 11am.

This review was conducted at the invitation of The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary and reflects the hotel’s standards during this period. Services may change in the future.