Two hours southeast of the Turkish capital of Ankara lies a surreal landscape of giant pink rocks carved by nature into phantasmagoric formations. Locals call the area Cappadoccia, or “fairy chimneys,” and at nearly every roadside stop, there’s a stall selling gozleme the flat bread native to the region. A mixture of feta cheese, parsley, vegetables and spices is wrapped in dough and sizzled over a hot griddle until perfectly crisp. Gozleme is tangier than an Indian paratha, more robust than a French crepe, and altogether delicious.
Cappadocians eat gozleme for breakfast, lunch and dinner (usually with a refreshing glass of ayran, a frothy yogurt drink). Newer restaurants in the area offer various kinds, including those stuffed with eggplant or mushrooms. While purists may scoff at such modern varieties and argue that there can only be three types of gozleme cheese, spinach or potato travelers needn’t be limited by such local controversies. Enjoy gozleme in whatever form you find it.


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